Mr. Flores

Food & Beverage

Pairings: Is Wine the Only Perfect Partner as a Complement to a Wonderful Meal?

By Juan Carlos Flores, Executive Sommelier, Pueblo Bonito Hotels Resorts & Spas

Throughout time, food and beverages have been the most important pairing on earth. Our existence depended on them. Water has been and still is the most important liquid-vital to survival. Through evolution and experimentation, human beings have found ways to produce additional liquids by pressing fruits, cacti and various other plants. Adding a further element of sophistication, we have also learned to mix these liquids and infuse them with cereals, flowers, spices and herbs to obtain the wide variety of interesting beverages we now have available.

The origins of beverages, like that of foods, are related directly to natural conditions of as weather, soil and water. If we want to understand why a product exists, we need to look at how these elements, together with the needs of the people in a specific time of history, gave us the products we now have that constitute a habit, fill a need or are a temporary vogue.

Let us consider two of our best known beverages that have had enduring importance in history: tea and coffee. Both have interesting stories and were completely suited to the natural conditions and needs of the people in the time and area in which they became prominent. Tea has existed for many centuries in Asia because it was well suited to the weather conditions and the ceremonial usage of the population. These people enjoy drinking tea while eating because it helps digestion and, depending on the type, could help in many other ways to improve health.

But why would a country like England adopt a habit of daily afternoon tea when it is so far removed from where tea is produced? Some say it is because of the time gap between English luncheons and the late English suppers. But why become dependant on a product that you cannot produce? It becomes logical when we consider that India, one of the world's most important tea producers, was controlled by the British Crown. The British Parliament was also exacting high taxes on tea, making it a profitable business. This taxation resulted in the American protest known as the Boston Tea Party, which history tells us was one of the important events that led to America's independence from Britain. It was then that Americans turned to coffee. It was also evident that coffee had a profitable future. As you are probably aware, certain varieties of coffee beans are quoted in the New York stock market and others in the London market.

The Bible mentions coffee, this dark hot beverage that long ago was forbidden by the Vatican. It was considered diabolic because of its color and because it stimulates human senses. Coffee also has an interesting history of Turkish people traveling across Europe and introducing it to the Italians, French, Dutch and Austrians. Because Turkish coffee was extremely strong, other countries modified its flavor to please their tastes and enriched its calorie content for cold weather with sugar and cream, serving it with sandwiches and pastries for a perfect pairing. Are you aware that the French croissant represents the shape of the half-moon in the Turkish flag? After wining a battle in Austria where the croissant was invented to pair with their coffee, the French chose to keep this special bread as a symbol of their victory. Coffee and tea are increasingly being used in recipes, and some restaurants prepare special menus with them. I once had the opportunity to taste a menu prepared with and paired with different teas that was delicious, light and healthy. By preparing infusions of various plants, fruit and water, it is possible to achieve a delicious tasting menu, pairing non-alcoholic beverages with each course.

Have you ever considered why people in most northern countries tend to drink beer and distilled products while in Mediterranean countries they drink wine and in tropical climates they drink more fresh fruits juices and cocktails? It is because of the weather conditions that produce the natural resources used in these products. Cold climates produce cereals; grains and certain plants that can be use to make beer and other fermented bases that can be distilled into products such whiskey, gin and vodka. The Mediterranean climate is suited to production of good quality grapes for wine, and tropical conditions yield wonderful fruits for juices, cocktails and in some areas, sugar cane for rum. It is no coincidence that bourbon was created where corn is plentiful or sake where rice is a major product. Nor is it a coincidence that food recipes, often made with these same ingredients, go well with these beverages. We can prepare a Bourbon chicken salad or some ribs in a "Bour BQ" sauce or even a delicious vanilla, ginger and bourbon cr`eme brul'ee.

Sake, derived from fermented rice, goes perfectly with the white rice that complements any fish dish. And imagine a fresh and light tuna sashimi with sesame seeds, drops of soy sauce and a dish of white rice. Paired with premium sakes that normally have great fragrance, the rice will enhance these elegant fruit essences, while the sashimi tuna combined with the soy sauce will bring up the "Umami Flavor" to your palate, giving a savory and well-rounded sensation that matches perfectly with the body of sake. Some sakes have an earthiness that can be perfect with poultry and even meat. Others with a piercing acidity work wonderfully with slightly oily food, such as tempura or baked fish. Just remember that strong red meats, massively spicy food, and richly flavored sauces are foods to avoid for a pleasant pairing experience with sake.

Whiskeys, gin and vodka are each worth an article in themselves. I just want to share with you some experiences I have had with these products and really enjoyed. One was a smoky and salty single malt Whisky paired with a dish composed of one piece of smoked salmon and another of a Scandinavian salt-cured raw salmon called gravlax, Delicious! Another was a well prepared gin & tonic pairing a selection of fresh raw oysters with some zest of horseradish and ginger. Wonderful! With vodka, I shake up a martini with mandarin vodka to enjoy with a green salad prepared with a dressing made with mandarins supreme and some grilled chicken. An interesting combination.

Beer and wine have a lower alcohol content than the hard liquors, and because of their varied categories, can pair magically with any dish we desire. We just need to consider that white or blond beers can be better with fresh seafood, salads, light prepared fish and cooked hams. Darker beers can match better with stronger flavors, chocolate, spices, aged cheese and meat.

Fortified wines-Port, sherry and Madeira-are another classification of beverages in the wine family that match great with food, though they are offered less frequently. These wines have their own story. They originated in Portugal and Spain. Wine produced without the addition of distilled alcohol could not be shipped and arrive in good condition in England, where they were, and are now, very well appreciated. There were no good systems for packaging and shipping (no cork), so to resist degradation of the wines on the trip to the north, producers and transporters added extra alcohol to fortify the wines, allowing them to endure the trip without turning to vinegar. Today these wines, particularly white port, are favorite aperitifs for the English, who enjoy them at tea with delicious appetizers that complete the tasting experience. Think of some recipes made with Stilton, "The King of Cheeses," or almonds, assorted nuts, dried fruit and chocolate combinations.

Pairing food with wine is very pleasant, but sometimes we want to try something different and we discover that other beverages can offer great moments too. The more we learn about them, the more we try and the more we discover new sensations to share. Try a new drink with your food following the guidelines above, and I can promise you a fun experience.

Juan Carlos Flores, executive sommelier with Pueblo Bonito Oceanfront Resorts and Spas, was named Mexico’s champion sommelier in 2004, and in 2005 won the Five Star Diamond Award for best North American sommelier. Mr. Flores was educated in Mexico, France and the United States and speaks fluent English, Spanish and French. As executive sommelier, he oversees the extensive wine collections of Pueblo Bonito’s seven resort hotels and numerous restaurants, provides pairing recommendations, and serves as wine advisor and instructor. Mr. Flores can be contacted at jflores@pueblobonito.com.mx Extended Bio...

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